01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
While pho is often the first dish that comes to mind when considering Vietnamese noodles, the menu at S.E.A. Kitchen in Sugamo reveals a much wider regional repertoire. Noodle dishes are built around 4 distinct styles: southern-style hu tieu, round rice vermicelli (bun), cellophane noodles (mien), and classic flat rice noodles (pho), each paired with purpose-made broths and toppings.
A natural place to start is the signature Hu Tieu Nam Vang. Thin rice noodles with a resilient bite sit in a clear, delicately seasoned broth loaded with toppings such as pork. Deep-fried bread rests alongside, meant for dunking so it drinks in the savory soup while keeping its crisp, toasted edge. The same noodle preparation can also be ordered dry as Dry Hu Tieu Nam Vang, tossed directly in a savory seasoning sauce for a different experience.
Diners craving bolder flavors can turn to dishes such as Bun Bo Hue, with its rich beef profile and piquant broth, or Bun Dau Mam Tom, which pairs cold vermicelli cakes with fried tofu and boiled pork meant to be dipped into pungent fermented shrimp paste. Broths made from chicken stock, such as a comforting chicken cellophane noodle soup, and dipping-style mien served with duck offer lighter, cleaner alternatives.
The kitchen extends the street-food spirit beyond noodles. Braised pork belly simmered until tender with deep-fried whole eggs that have absorbed the braising liquor makes for a hearty plate with rice or drinks. Crispy roast pork belly with crackling skin, stir-fries with house-made Vietnamese ham, and fresh summer rolls round out an evening alongside Saigon Beer, 333 Beer, or Nep Moi, a Vietnamese spirit prized for its fragrant aroma reminiscent of sticky rice.
Bright yellow walls set a cheerful tone inside, where counter seats and tables accommodate solo diners stopping by for a bowl of noodles as easily as small groups sharing several plates. Rich, sweetened Vietnamese drip coffee makes a fitting finish, lingering pleasantly alongside the memory of the savory broths.
